French Roll

The hair is swept to one side, pinned in a vertical line down the center back, then the remaining half is folded over that line of pins and tucked under itself. Done properly there is no visible elastic and no loose end anywhere, because the roll is a closed tube. It is the most formal shape in this family and it survives a long evening, though it takes practice and a row of hairpins rather than bobby pins.

• Suitsoval, round face shapes. All the bulk sits in a vertical seam at the back of the head, so no width is added anywhere near the cheekbone and the face keeps the proportions it already has.
• Hair typemedium density, thick, straight, wavy. It wants collarbone length or longer with some weight behind it, since very fine or heavily layered hair slips out of the fold and needs a pin every inch.
• UpkeepA trim every eight to ten weeks keeps the tucked ends from splitting out of sight inside the roll, and setting it takes ten minutes and about a dozen hairpins.
• Ask forAsk for one length to at least the collarbone with no layer shorter than the nape, and say you want to be able to wear it in a French twist.

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